Shhh! Don't tell. This wine was evaluated from a, gasp, Champagne flute.

By Jacob Harkins | Local Winos Magazine editor

Infinite Monkey Theorem tried to can a sparkling wine in 2010. Like every thing the Denver winery has packaged, it was an instant success. So IMT is back with a 2011 version of the Black Muscat in a can.

I found myself with one recently, and yes, it was evaluated out of a Riedel Champagne glass. And yes, I felt ridiculous pouring this can in such a receptacle. IMT winemaker Ben Parsons never envisioned such treatment.

He’d rather you shotgun it.

Well, the wine inside is good enough for the glass choice this day.

It’s not white, nor is it pink enough to hit that “rosé” color. Rather, it’s a white sparkling wine that looks touched with the skins of the Black Muscat. On the nose, the wine conjures images of a Moscato d’Asti. Warm, strawberry and sugar colors take control.

It’s sweet in the glass with bright fruit flavors, and is by no means as bubbly as bubbly. Rather this can lives up to its moniker as a carbonated wine. The bubbles are small and light. It’s basically as effervescent as it is pink, which is to say just a touch.

Is it as good as my favorite Moscato d’Asti? Nope. But it’s more fun. C’mon, it comes in a can.

Just don’t bother with the fancy glassware (although try tasting it out of a glass and the can; there is a difference).

More:

Infinite Monkey Theorem 2011 Carbonated 2011 Black Muscat in a can
Grand Valley
Alcohol by volume: 10.4 percent
Price: $7 (250 ml can)
7 points on Local Winos completely arbitrary rating system

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• IMT reviews

By Jacob Harkins | Local Winos Media editor

Experience One with The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey wasn’t memorable (evaluating a sweetened, tasting room wine just isn’t my thing). So it was a pleasant surprise during my first actual visit to the gorgeous Canon City property to learn that this style of red was just the toasting on an oak stave, so to speak, in what the winery produces.

The rest of the lineup is filled with classic, dry wines that scream for restaurant placements. Kudos to winemaker Matt Cookson, whose love for wine started with Merlot. Matter of fact, there are more than a few who call him “Matt Merlot.”

Miles wouldn’t be happy.

But those with an affinity for the popular Bordeaux grape should be, as Cookson’s love for it has transformed into a rather enjoyable 2009 Reserve Merlot from The Winery at Holy Cross. It’s the type of bottle that’ll turn all those Sideways Pinot fans back into favor with Merlot.

The nose hits with toast, vanilla and plums. It’s a tad boozy, but that blows off quickly. It sure needs to open up, but that’s not surprising. The term reserve is often left for wines treated a little longer and in better oak. Seems the case here. There’s enough of an acid structure to make it food pleasing and hint at some age-ability, too.

The fruit rushes over the palate (think plums, cherries and other rich fruits you’d expect from Merlot, the tannins are certainly noticeable but the wine — even sans adequate aeration — still swallows smoothly. The finish is long and satisfying, but perhaps a little too burnt from the oak toast. It doesn’t detract. This is a standout wine.

Matt Merlot indeed.

More:
 The Winery at Holy Cross Abbey 2009 Reserve Merlot
 Alcohol by volume: 14.7 percent
Price: $28
8.5 points  on Local Winos’ arbitrary rating system

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• Holy Cross reviews
• Colorado Merlot

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Arapahoe at Village Station:
Finn McCool’s, 8880 East Arapahoe Road (0.9 miles away)

Convention Center Station:
Crave Dessert Bar, 891 14th St. (0.1 miles away)
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Colorado Governor’s Cup, an American Wine Society Regional Wine Competition, will celebrate Colorado wine in one of Denver’s most lavish settings, the Governor’s Residence. $50. The event is a fundraiser for the Governor’s Residence Preservation Fund. 5:30-7:30 at the Governor’s Residence, 400 East 8th Ave..

Tickets available at Black Tie Colorado

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Open house events:
Canyon Wind Cellars (Palisade) and Creekside Cellars (Evergreen), 28036 Colorado 74, Evergreen. 4-6 p.m. $10. Reservations required. 303-674-5460

Grande River Vineyards visits Bookcliff Vineyards, 1501 Lee Hill Road, Unit #17, Boulder. 303-499-7301

Mesa Park Vineyards visits Turquoise Mesa Winery, 555 Burbank St., Unit Q. Broomfield, 303-653-3822. 4–6 p.m.

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